Santiago, Chile: A city I kind of recognized though I had never been there before

I have the good fortune to have a well-connected aunt and the even better fortune to have my well-connected aunt contact her geographically desirable friend on behalf of her niece despite her niece’s apparent general apathy towards planning her upcoming trip to Chile. The best fortune of all is that the connection of my well-connected aunt was Sandra, a very kind lady who volunteered to pick me up from the airport in Santiago and help me out for the day. What better welcome could one ask for? And I was very lucky that Sandra was there because, on top of the incredible evaporation of anxiety that comes from being taken care of when entering a foreign country, as it turned out there were several things not going my way. First of all, I had neglected to buy my ticket from Santiago to Puerto Montt. I was supposed to leave the night of the day that I arrived in Santiago. Normally this wouldn’t be such a tall order, but as Sandra’s mother explained to me, I arrived on the crucial days when the Chilean vacation zones changed, which meant that a significant portion of the country’s population would be trying to come home from vacation, while the other another portion wanted to leave. Sandra was very worried when I told her that I hadn’t bought my ticket yet. Indeed her worries were well justified. She spent a long while calling up various bus companies and systematically received answers that there would be no vacancies until Sunday, Monday, Tuesday… not very promising. But in the end it turned out well. We went to the Tur Bus ticket booth in Provedencia, the part of Santiago that Sandra’s mother lived in, and they miraculously had a spot on a bus leaving that evening. Yay!

Once this crucial detail was taken care of, I was able to much better enjoy and notice the city of Santiago. The first thing had struck me when leaving the airport was the sunlight. I had come from Paris which was wrapped in dreary winter grey, but Santiago was full of sunlight and that happy summery feeling. While on the road from the airport to Santiago sienna colored mountains sprang up from every side. It was a very lovely drive, and then suddenly high rise buildings appeared in front of us. Santiago was decidedly a very modern city. Sandra pointed out an unfinished glass building as the tallest in all of South America. This city with all its sky scrapers, square city blocks, and Starbucks, could have been Anywhere, North America. I definitely got a very California vibe from it. Sandra told me that the Santiago Chileans were great consumers and that there were many large American style malls. Indeed, we went to the Paris mall to look at a couple of electronics that I needed and I saw many stores that were straight out of American banality; Duncan Donuts, TGI Friday, Burger King. One’s instinct when visiting a new place is to be revolted by such horrible homogeneity. After all, we travel to get away from home, to see new places. Also, when we think of the rest of the world, we have a tendency to be horrified when other cultures want to take part in our Western-style comforts and consumer culture. But to be honest, I was so pleased that Santiago was that way. I needed to go to the mall and give in to my horrible Western consumer instincts, and in some weird way it was comforting to feel like I recognized a part of my own country when I was so far away from home. Sure Madagascar may be deliciously backwards and Starbucks free, but there is no way I could have bought a new camera so easily in Antanarivo a few hours after getting off the plane.

After a lunch of delicious empenadas, which are large fried pockets of dough filled with a mouth-watering combination of meat and onions or melted cheese, we went for a quick driving tour around the city. Sandra and her son Hanival pointed out some of the important landmarks to me such as the Monedad which is a beautiful white house and, like the White House, the president lives there. We saw the muddy river that runs through Santiago, as well as the the picturesque hill upon which Santiago was founded. We stopped for a moment at Pablo Neruda’s house which is now a museum and admired the colorful murals that adorned the walls of that street. It was a quick tour but it made me want to come back and explore the city better.

After a beer to fend off the day’s heat and a quick visit to introduce me to here eldest daughter, Sandra brought me to the Tur Bus drop off point. It was a bus cama, which means super fancy seats that are as large as an airplane first class seat and recline all the way. I was really excited to be traveling in style as it was 14 hour trip that I could do my best to sleep through. I sadly said goodbye to Sandra who was the most wonderful hostess one could hope for and geared up for the next part of the trip. I had seen one Chile and, with my inherent consumer cravings fully satiated for the moment, I was ready to see a whole other one. 

I now know where the middle of nowhere is

I think that the hardest things to adjust to when one goes to a new place aren’t the most salient differences but the unexpected surprises. For me, the hardest adjustment I had to make when moving to the ZeehondenCrèche wasn’t to learning seal care or living in basic dormitory conditions, instead it was to the unexpected ruralness of my surroundings.

My dad kindly offered to drive me up to the North Sea coast where this teeny tiny village is. I did not realize how rural it was until, with four hours left of the drive to go, we entered farmland and didn’t leave. The thing about the Netherlands is that it is extremely flat. This flatness lends itself well to bicycle riding and wind-energy harnessing, and another thing that it allows one to do is see your surroundings for miles around. In my case, traveling up the Dutch coast, I saw the horizon as a line unbroken by signs of civilization. The only signs of life were the multitude of cows and sheep. No clusters of houses indicating the possibility of towns to be seen. The flatness of my surroundings also eliminated the possibility that these catchments of civilization were hidden. No, they just didn’t exist.

Finally we arrived to Pieterburen. It appeared as if by magic, I blinked and suddenly the road was lined with houses, blocking my view of the cows and sheep. This is where I was going to live. Now I’ve been to some remote places like the Arctic tundra and the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, but somehow because I expected them to be remote, the shock was pratically nonexistant because I expected these places to be in the middle of nowhere. I guess one of the things that surprised me the most was how surprised I was. I consider myself a relatively well-traveled person, how is it that this teeny town in a developed country felt so completely new to me? I know I have seen this type of town before, but I probably didn’t notice because I didn’t have to live there, I was just passing through (which, as I mentioned before, only takes an eye-blink).

The point of is, don’t let yourself become complacent! I think that the reason why I was so surprised in the first place is because I let myself be lazy when it came to researching Pieterburen because it is a town in the Netherlands. Hello, I grew up in a town in France! How different could they be? It turns out, very different. From my belated research I found out that Pieterburen has 300 inhabitants, which is about ten times less than my town in France. Maybe therein lies the difference? In any case, I guess I realized that I have much higher expectations for towns than I thought I did. For instance, I did expect the town I would be living in to have a store. I also did expect to be surrounded by animals, after all I am working at a seal center, I just did not expect the majority of these animals to be livestock.   

Switching to full shutdown mode!

Yesterday, we had our last scheduled sampling session of the season. It was with a great sense of satisfaction that I pushed the tea-colored water from Imnavait weir through the cation filter, drop by drop, until at last, my arms trembling from exertion, I could cap that green taped 60mL CATS bottle for what I can only assume is the billionth time. And this time was the last time. I optimistically think, “Great! My days of lugging water from lake to lake are over!” I throw my arms up to the sky in celebration of the end of my filtering days, and that’s when Jason starts piling long pieces of plastic poles in my empty palms. Yep, no more water to lug, I’ll just be hauling equipment instead.

I have one week left, and though it will be free of sampling, it will not be lacking in things to do. As the final five remaining members of the lab, its our great pleasure to handle the herculean task of shutdown. The Arctic is lovely and hunky-dory now, but in a matter of weeks, conditions will harshen, and the population of camp will go from thirty to three. Thus our task until the end of the season is to prepare the lab space for a successful hibernation. Some things, like plastic nalgene bottles, syringes, and serum vials, are hardy enough to rough it through winter stacked in cardboard boxes on a shelf in the lab. Other things, like expensive electronics, pipettes, and certain chemicals, are a bit more high maintenance and need to be bundled up and packed in warm storage. The first stage of this process is to pull the equipment from the field back into the lab and sort everything by prospective storage area. The second stage involves cleaning, labeling, and inventorying… EVERYTHING. There are five of us responsible for shutting down the projects of four PIs, whose stuff is sprawled over three labs plus two storage areas. Oh, and all the stuff in the field.

Though we have been trying hard to stay organized, I cannot help but feel slightly overwhelmed by the sheer volume of stuff we have to deal with. Over a couple of days, we brought in the four Isco auto-samplers, which take water samples spaced between preset time intervals. You may remember what an Isco looks like from my pictures of the July 4th Star Wars skit (hint: a spare Isco starred as R2D2). They have now taken over the Lab 4 floor space. I have also very happily spent an afternoon dumping all the nutrient samples and after which I very carefully placed the bags full of empty 125 mL bottles on top of the Iscos so as to keep a narrow corridor free of stuff for walking purposes. There’s stuff everywhere, under the lab, outside the door, and ever since Jason and I spent three hours Thursday afternoon beginning the daunting task of organizing the Conex storage shed, there’s a great mound of stuff piled outside the Conex which has now grown to such epic proportions that it merged with the pile outside Lab 4. And there’s more stuff coming in from the field every day.

Iscos taking over the lab! We pack up the Isco heads in warm storage and leave the rest in the Conex for winter.

On Monday we sampled lakes E5 and E6 jointly with the lakes group, and while we were there we took down the meteorological station and the drippers, which are pumps set on anchored floats that fertilize the lakes with a fortifying stew of nitrates. We spent the morning pulling up buckets of rocks and cement that served as anchors for the stations, and then towed them back to shore from the row boat, the stations floating along like large pets on the end of a leash. Aside from the couple of minutes it took for us to realize that the E5 dripper had a third anchor that we hadn’t noticed nor pulled up, which we subsequently realized was the explanation for why we weren’t getting any closer to shore despite Jason’s frantic rowing, the morning went by quite smoothly. We successfully got all the equipment on shore, stripped them of electronics, car batteries, and solar panels, and left the rest on the tundra for the winter.

So this next week will not be the relaxing time I had envisioned upon learning that we finish sampling a week before our departure date. But at least I can say with firm conviction that I have filtered my last* bottle! What joy!

*Correction: next-to-last bottle. Katie has just informed me that she needs to sample the Sag river on Wednesday. I should never have spoken with such conviction.  

Taking the meteorological station apart
Dumping the rest of the fertilizer from the drippers in the lake. Yum!
Sebastien and Ben left a Dew out on the rack for us! How thoughtful 🙂

Autumn in August

“Oh you’re going to love it in August, it’s my favorite time of the summer”, says Dustin on my second day at Toolik, “Its beautiful, Fall comes really quickly and the tundra changes color almost overnight. It looks like skittles.”

“Skittles?”

“Yeah, bright red, skittle color. You’ll love it.”

He was right.

Skittles!

W canoed across Toolik lake and hiked up Jade Mountain. You can see the camp in the upper left corner of the lake, and the road behind it. When we got the the top, we ran into a herd of caribou. They didn’t seem scared of us and hung around for a while. This is the closest I’ve gotten to the caribou yet!

The Dark Room

Some people at Toolik upon the eve of their departure get to throw up their hands in mock despair and say, “Its going to be so weird going back home where it gets dark! I’ve totally forgotten what that’s like!”. To my great dismay, I will not be able to say that and really mean it, because every day I spend a couple of hours in… the DARK ROOM.

The dark room is the only place in camp where no light shines 24/7. We run two analyses in there, OPA for ammonia, and chlorophyll. A fluorometer works by shining a light on an object and detecting how much of the light the object reemits via flurescence. To do this, it needs to be in the dark. On top of that, the reagent for OPA is light sensitive, and chlorophyll needs to be kept in the dark all the time, both of which reinforce the unfortunate necessity of the dark room being, well, dark. As the newest member of the Kling team, I got the exciting assignment of running OPA. As Sara so nicely first described the process to me so as not to discourage me, “Its a little long… but you get to spend a lot of time in the dark room by yourself which is kinda nice”. What she really meant is, its mind-numbing drudgery that takes forever, and you get to spend most of it sitting by yourself in the dark listening to other people in the lab having fun. I’m exaggerating, its really not that bad, and getting some time alone is nice… at least that’s what I tell myself when I’m in the dark squinting at the fluorometer.

So what do you need to run OPA? First off you need the following, sample, working reagent, buffer solution, and standards. The buffer solution is a weaker version of the working reagent, and standards are solutions of known ammonia concentration. We use these to make a standard curve which is essential to calculate the concentration of ammonia in the samples. The principle is as follows. There no way to directly test for ammonia, so what we do is add a reagent called OPA to the samples, let the mix react for 16 to 24 hours, and then read the fluorescence off the fluorometer. Except that in addition to the samples that have straight working reagent added to them, we have two more sets of samples that are spiked with two volumes of highly concentrated standard, and another row of tubes to which is not added working reagent but buffer, which is a weaker solution of the working reagent. We do this for calculation reasons involving matrices. Feel confused? Me too.

Though I haven’t tried to understand the math surrounding the production of the actual values of ammonia, what I do understand is that OPA quadruples the time I have to spend with the fluorometer, because if I’m running a medium run of 30 samples, I actually have 120 tubes to rinse, pipette, shoot up, and read; plus 12 more for the standards. Its an ordeal. After returning from the field on Mondays, Wednesday, and Fridays, I’ll start the long process of preparing my tubes for OPA. In the dark room I rinse them with DI water and then buffer (~ 45 minutes), then I pipette my samples and standards in the common area of the lab (~ 90 minutes) then back to the dark room to shoot up, i.e. add OPA or buffer to the tubes (~ 45 minutes). Then the next day back to the dark room to read the samples (~ 2 hours).

I have spent so much time with the fluorometer I feel as though it is another person, a very needy and fickle person. It was not enough that three labs were battling over the precious time slots to spend at its side, it just HAD to break down half way through the summer. We yelled at it, threatened to throw it on the ground, but it didn’t listen. I guess it finally got its attention fix after a week and a half of being fawned over, taken apart, and settings readjusted, before finally deciding to work again. Of course at that point, our backlogs had accumulated so quickly that it didn’t even have to try to give us good data, we took whatever shoddy numbers it threw at us. What an unappreciative piece of equipment.

Sometimes Jason goes all misty eyed and says, “Well you know back in 08 when I ran OPA, we had to pipette the samples in the dark room on top of everything else. That was the woooooorst.” Very soon, I’ll be able to join that exclusive club of ex-OPAers. Sometimes when I’m alone squinting at the ever fluctuating values of the fluorometer I dream about the last time I’ll exit the dark room, stumbling around for a few seconds while my eyes get used to the brightness, and look back upon OPA as Jason does; with a wistful fondness and a sense of accomplishment from having gone a whole summer without throwing the fluorometer on the ground. Even once.    

“We don’t Dew it for the taste…”

There are a lot of things at Toolik that I do that I don’t do at home. Its all part of this experience of being in a small community in a remote field station. We spend so much time together that we end up developing communal habits and rituals that everyone participates in. These rituals, no matter how strange they seem when you stop and think about them, are very important for group bonding and have become an integral part of my Toolik experience.

An example of something that I do here and that I would not do at home is drink Mountain Dew. Regularly. I haven’t had a cup of coffee since the first day I got here, instead, I’m drinking at least a can a day, probably even two. Back home, I don’t drink the stuff, I rarely drink soda at all. And out of all the sodas out there, why would I ever choose to drink Mountain Dew? It’s so sugary and has the worst after-taste ever. Its third ingredient (after sugar) is orange juice from concentrate (the next one being corn syrup… which apparently is different from sugar), and it contains brominated vegetable oil. That can’t be good. It has about as many calories as a meal. So for all those reasons, when I was first offered a Dew on my second day, I politely declined. We had just stepped into our red truck after a morning of sampling the weir at Imnavait. That can of Dew was the last thing I wanted, and Dustin retracted his offer with a knowing smile. I was new, I didn’t know what the next couple of weeks was going to offer, but Dustin knew what I did not: I was about to get hooked on Dews.

The next day, the Dews popped out again. I wasn’t so quick to refuse this time, they couldn’t be so bad right? Wrong! The taste couple with the sticky sweetness was overwhelming, I could only take a couple of sips. But then my palette started to change, and I found myself beginning to crave the gag reflex triggering taste. They would pop out at odd and dependable times, usually around lunch in the field, or back in the truck after finishing sampling. Sometimes, on difficult days, we’d even have to resort to drinking a Dew before hoisting our packs. We always drink them together, and delight in the ickyness of what we were doing. After drinking a Dew, we’d always be more revved up and ready to go back to work even though we’re sleep deprived, sore, and cold. Our rituals surrounding Dews continued to escalate as June turned into July. We brought three Dews per person with us, just in case. We started chugging them. We’d hide them in the glove compartments and stash them under seats. Twice, we drove up to Imnavait where some of our lab was sampling and left some surprise Dews on the dashboard.

As I said, I developed a taste for them. But I guess it wasn’t a taste for the flavor, but it was more a taste for the feelings of community that they inspire. After a long day of trudging through the tundra in the rain with a few liters of water on your back, the Dew at the end of the tunnel is one way we keep our spirits up. Its so weird that something as icky as Mountain Dew is one of the cornerstones upon which my experience at Toolik has been built upon, but there’s nothing like doing something silly such as sharing a couple of dews with a couple of friends to remind myself that this place is very, VERY, far from home.

Lake NE14! Can you spot all the Dews in this picture?
Dustin is so impatient to have his Dew he’s drinking through the net
Getting psyched!